The Wayúu of Guajira, Colombia

Territory and history

Guajira is a dry, arid peninsula shared by Colombia and Venezuela. This territory was the staging point and refuge for some of the Arawak peoples who moved from the Amazon to the West Indies at the beginning of our era. During colonization, the Wayùu retreated to this inhospitable desert, where they asserted their autonomy and customs. In contact with the settlers, the  » guajiros  » developed trade, livestock and craft activities, while fighting for control of their territory, often at the cost of blood. Despite their distance from the decision-making and power centers of the Spanish Crown and the newly-formed states, the Guajiros were able to resistthe systematic assimilation of indigenous peoples by the colonizers forcenturies

Mining projects and the modern economy

This de facto independence was gradually eroded by the development of mining projects in the region, such as El Cerrejon (one of the world’s largest coal mines), and oil projects in Maracaibo. With the arrival of this « modern » economy, some Wayùu migrated to the surrounding towns to find work, and the porous border meant that smuggling became a way of life, providing a meagre livelihood. However, these large-scale extractive projects, depleting fish stocks or diverting rivers, contribute to the deterioration of their natural environment and have made this already hostile region even more arid

Seasons in Guajira

In normal times, Guajira has two seasons that punctuate the lives of the Wayùu: the dry season or Jemial (December-April), when many travel to the cities to work, and the rainy season or Juyapu (September-December), when it’s time to return to the land. The latter allows the Wayùu to develop various crops and fatten their livestock. Breeding, mainly goats, is one of the main activities of this people, whose prestige is measured by the number of animals they own. However, with climate change, this alternation of climates is becoming increasingly blurred, and rain is becoming rare. In this part of the world, water has become a precious resource.

Customs, organization and daily life

To reach the furthest reaches of Wayùu territory and take part in the daily life of a village or family, you’ll have to set off fromUribia in 4×4 vehicles that will make your journey unforgettable. Amidst goats, sacks of rice or sugar, water cans, bicycle wheels and other loads of all kinds, the Wayùu make their way along the bumpy, straight desert tracks. They don’t hesitate to place one or two children on the laps of curious travellers who have embarked on the adventure. Very smiling and welcoming, the Wayùu will receive you in their rectangular houses, made of cactus wood, more commonly known as « rancherias ». Next to the central room, where the hammocks are stretched out, is the kitchen, a place of great importance, as is the local gastronomy. While on the coast you can enjoy succulent lobsters and other seafood, which are traded on the return of the fishermen, inland the food is essentially based on goat and maize. For those with strong stomachs, « friche » is the dish not to be missed: made with offal and goat’s blood, it will delight the bold

Colombia’s most important indigenous people

The Wayùu are Colombia’s most important indigenous people. Their language, Wayùunaiki, is shared by all and forms the basis of their identity, although Spanish is also spoken. Wayùu society is organized into some twenty clans spread throughout the country. Clan membership is determined by the mother, in whose family the children are raised. The role of women is paramount

Social organization

Draped in magnificent, colorful tunics, they are the ones who pass on Wayùu culture, traditions and ways of behaving. At puberty, the young girl undergoes an initiation rite that includes a period of isolation, during which she is in contact only with her mother, who passes on her knowledge. Very independent and strong-willed, they are the ones who manage expenses, weave mochilas (saddlebags) or chinchorros (hammocks), take care of all the details of family life and represent the clan to the outside world. Social relations between families of the same clan are organized by the men. Authority is held by the Putchipu or Palabrero (master of the word), who dispenses justice, known as Sukuaipa, using the word as a means of pacifying morals. He is a community, social and cultural leader who mediates in everyday conflicts, and acts as judge and decision-maker. Unesco has recognized this practice of justice by the palabreros as part of the Intangible Heritage of Humanity

The Piachi: holder of spiritual knowledge

Another important figure, the Piachi is the holder of spiritual knowledge. During numerous rituals and dances, he initiates the Wayùu to communicate with spirits and divinities. Traditional medicine is still widely used by many clans, and shamanic rites are common practice, late-night vigils during which trance-like chants echo endlessly in the desert silence. Funeral rites are long-lasting, and relatives often come from all over Guajira to pay their last respects to the deceased, between laughter and tears, and often sharing a variety of victuals and a few glasses of chirrinchi (the traditional alcohol distilled by hand in the region). Cabo de la Vela, a magnificent bay of turquoise water where the winds soften the harsh rays of the sun, is considered a special place as it is where the souls of the departed come to embark on the sailboat for the ultimate voyage to the other world. The importance of spirituality, knowledge of the stars and the riches of the land is still alive and well in Guajira today. Often, the motifs used for ceramics or various weavings are directly inspired by representations of the spirits or forces that organize the world.

A people « on the brink of extinction »..

Long caught in the crossfire between paramilitary and guerrilla groups who fought over the region due to its strategic location (opening up an informal corridor for trafficking of all kinds), the Wayùu people have suffered numerous exactions, targeted assassinations, violence and displacements for decades. Today, although the situation has calmed down, other problems have added to the stigma of the conflict. The area is increasingly affected by persistent drought, and natural resources are dwindling. According to the NGO Fucai, the water shortage is bringing the Wayùu « to the brink of extinction », with many deaths in recent years linked to lack of water and food. The central Colombian government pays little attention to these issues, and access to healthcare and education remains clearly limited. Civil society has recently expressed outrage at living conditions in certain parts of Guajira. The matter has been referred to the Inter-American Court of Human Rights (IACHR), which has ordered Colombia to take emergency and preventive measures to save the particularly vulnerable Wayùu populations. Tourism, if it respects their culture, can be an interesting alternative, contributing to healthy and sustainable development. Exchanging with the Wayùu is a unique opportunity to discover a very special way of life. Discovering the Wayùu territory of Guajira by spending timeimmersed in a family or village is an unforgettable experience. These desert men and women survive in extreme conditions and have developed an extraordinary way of life that has preserved their identity and customs in contact with the industrialized world. Find out more

• Documentary : The river they stole, Gonzalo Guillén
• Cuisine: Fruits of the Juya desert
• Video : Water is women’s gold

Text by Eliott Brachet