The Cauca, an indigenous land par excellence, is a territory where all the complexities of Colombian history come together. I was lucky enough to be able to spend a week immersed among the various local peoples, from the Misaks of Silvia to the Papayata of Valencia, via the Yanaconas of the Colombian macizo of Rio Blanco, it was a mosaic of cultures that I was able to discover. A very enriching experience, here are the 10 highlights of this trip.
Syncretism between Catholicism and ancestral religion
I loved listening to the stories of the Duende (a mythological character who protects nature and utters surprising cries at night) and the Viuda (a ghost charged with punishing unfaithful husbands) by the fire under a portrait of the Virgin Mary, with my host trembling with fear and signing his name!
The purification ceremony to access Papayata territories
A ceremony during which my spiritual guide happily blew smoke from his cigar in my face before spitting a mixture of eau de vie and local roots over my entire being (from head to toe, thinking with my soul), a delicious smell and humidity in the middle of nature at almost 3000 metres and in the freezing cold.
Tasting the king's dish
In gratitude for my visit, the locals organized a festive meal with the sacrifice of a guinea pig. Open to all experiences and eager to return the honor, I tried to eat everything! It’s appetizing, especially when my guide confirms that even the head can be eaten. Bon appétit of course!
Discover the Papayatas water temples
A natural wonder set in a magnificent landscape. A small prayer of homage to the Pacha Mama is a MUST!
The music
Very much part of the traditions of these communities, a special Chirimiya was organized in the heart of an exceptional landscape, with some surprising instruments. In the foreground, a horse’s jawbone recycled as a percussion instrument! Hilariously, the musician tunes his instrument by moving the molars! I’ve started lessons!
Preparing a corn-based dinner with an authentic Misaks family
Music and cultural exchange. A delicious moment of sharing.
Observing condors, messengers of the sun, in Purace Park
It was a magical moment, and my guides were very moved, seeing it as a good omen. The smell of rotting pork, on the other hand, doesn’t tell me much..
Yanacona showers
Small streams of thermal water in the middle of the countryside make you forget for a few moments the cold that reigns in the Macizo Colombiano.
The breathtaking landscapes of Paramo Puraceno
The joie de vivre and kindness of my guide Yanacona Thank you for all these moments!
