First of all, let’s get back on track: Choco is located in the north-west of the country, has coastlines on both oceans and borders Panama (and the Darien jungle).
First I flew to Medellin, then to Bahia Solano (on the Pacific coast) in a tiny airplane (the kind that never shakes as soon as there’s a little cloud…). On arrival at this tiny « airport », my guide was waiting for me and took me in 30/40 minutes to my lodge on the beach, facing the ocean. A comfortable lodge, plenty of insects left at the door and a welcome worthy of Colombia: with a smile and a good mood! My eyes are irresistibly drawn out to sea, as if the humpback whales that stay in the bay from May to October were waiting for me to perform their most beautiful backflip. You’ll have to be patient. At the aperitif on the first evening, I attend a briefing on cetaceans: where they come from, why, how they live etc… Fascinating! And the next morning, after a tropical fruit salad and a few arepas, we set off out to sea to observe them. I’ve taken part in similar excursions in the past and have always been disappointed: too many boats, not enough whales (sic), a real business. Everything is different here. I feel like a pioneer. We’re the only boat with 6 people on board, and we move slowly so as not to make too much noise, especially not to disturb the whales and their calves. Aquí hay una Julie, mira »: my guide has a keen eye and points to a fin 20 times larger than a dolphin’s. Then the body comes out, delicately, and we’re off. Then the body comes out, delicately, interminably, and the highlight of the show, the whale calf is right next to it! The show is punctuated by a break on a deserted beach with emerald waters, a typical meal and an orange sunset. My head and camera are full of images – what a first day!
Over the next few days, we head back out to sea, enter Utria National Park for a hike, visit some indigenous Embera communities and come across whales again. No one bothers them, and the area’s fish-filled waters, ideal temperature and gentle currents are ideal for welcoming them at this time of year, before they set off on an interminable journey to the cold waters of Patagonia. We suggest you stay 4 days to discover the region in all its nooks and crannies. You’ll get to know another side of Colombia: wild, off the beaten track and unforgettable!
