Mysterious, bewitching, dazzling, inspiring passion – Frollo would never claim otherwise, nor even Quasimodo. And it’s no coincidence that Victor Hugo named his heroine after the precious stone that symbolizes love, fidelity, hope and harmony: the emerald. Yet there’s a long way to go from the world of Notre-Dame de Paris to that of the Colombian emerald mines discovered, or more accurately rediscovered, by the 16th-century conquistadors.
Today, Colombia is by far the world’s leading emerald producer, accounting for 55% of global production (3.4 million carats in 2011), ahead of Zambia (15%), Brazil (12%), Russia (4%), Zimbabwe (3%) and Madagascar (3%). Thanks to the recent discovery of an open-pit mine, Zambia is poised to supplant Colombia on the top step of the podium. But only in terms of volume. When it comes to quality1, Colombian emeralds are unquestionably superior: larger than anywhere else2, with unrivalled purity and incomparable colour3.
The emerald belt
Colombia’s main emerald deposits are spread over two zones (or districts) that lie on a geological fault running north-northeast from the capital, Bogotá, and straddling two departments, Boyacá and Cundinamarca. The most important mine in the eastern district is Chivor. In the western district, the Muzo mine surpasses the others in terms of the quantity, size and splendour of the gems extracted.4 The concession of these mines has been ceded by the State to private companies, who exploit them according to their interests, in a still artisanal way. Mechanization is in its infancy, and safety conditions are basic in the narrow, unstable galleries where miners work eight hours a day in sweltering temperatures. But more than the archaic nature of these operating conditions, what strikes you when you visit the mines is the army of small people working in total anarchy in the vicinity of the mines, whose entrances are carefully guarded. These informal miners, nicknamed « guaqueros » (treasure seekers) come from all over the country, sometimes with their families, drawn by the fantasy of becoming a millionaire with a single blow of the pickaxe, the one that will enable them to discover THE stone that changes a person’s destiny5.
But more than the archaism of these mining conditions, what strikes you when you go there is the army of little people working in total anarchy around the mines, whose entrances are carefully guarded. These informal miners, nicknamed « guaqueros » (treasure seekers) come from all over the country, sometimes with their families, drawn by the fantasy of becoming a millionaire with a single blow of the pickaxe, the one that will enable them to discover THE stone that changes a person’s destiny5.
They relentlessly scavenge the mineral waste discharged into the rivers, and at night they sometimes venture onto the perimeter of the official mines to dig directly into the mountainside. The guaqueros are completely illegal. But neither the mines’ security services nor the forces of law and order are in a position to prevent their presence, which they have no choice but to tolerate. On the other hand, the quaqueros are on their own when it comes to dealing with the many risks associated with their activity: rockslides, explosions, falls or armed bandits.
No longer the Wild West
For the mining regions have obviously long attracted the greatest covetousness. Not so long ago, the region was a veritable Wild West, the scene of violent clashes between rival groups: guerrillas, militias, traffickers… with distinct objectives and motives, but all heavily armed and eager to take control of the lucrative green trade. The situation has changed radically since the government won the long battle it waged alone against all the armed groups. For example, it is now possible to visit these mines, something that was unthinkable just ten years ago. However, the greatest precautions must be taken, and a guide must be hired to get you there. If this atmosphere is definitely too sulphurous for your taste, you can visit the Emerald Museum, inaugurated in Bogotá in 2008. This well-designed museum features natural and cut emeralds, as well as a reproduction mine
The emerald tour in Bogotá
During your stay in Bogotá, we can organize an exclusive tour of the world of Colombian emeralds. Accompanied by an « expert » guide, you’ll wander the streets of the capital, meeting dealers and artisans. As you visit processing workshops and boutiques, you’ll learn how to recognize beautiful stones. Contact us now!
1 The quality of an emerald is based on three criteria: its color (the most important criterion), its purity and its size.2 The average weight of Colombian emeralds varies from 40 to 200 carats, making them the largest on the planet.3 The result of the presence of chromium particles in beryl, the mineral from which emeralds are made.4 An exceptional emerald weighing five pounds and 11.000 carats was discovered there in 1999.5 A 20-carat emerald can fetch up to 600,000 dollars on the market.6 In such vast territories, much more manpower would be needed to prevent access to the outskirts of the mines: the forces of law and order, both private and public, are content to monitor the official mines.
