What are you doing next weekend?This was the « trick » question Julie asked me one day between two tour creations… After a little hesitation, I replied that I was free. « After a little hesitation, I replied that I was free: « OK, then, if you agree, you go to Chocó, on the Pacific coast! But of course I’m available, Julie! Even if I’d had a private salsa class with Shakira or a Carlos Vives concert planned, I’d have cancelled the whole thing! Going on a « reco » is a bit like the icing on the cake of our profession… And going to the Chocó is just a dream come true!
Here we go! That’s it, I’ve arrived at the small airport in Medellin, the only boarding point for the flight to Ñuqui. In the Chocó region, there are no roads, so the only way to get there is by plane (or rather, avionette!) The journey starts now: the plane can only hold 18 people (including the pilot and co-pilot!). We weigh everything before boarding: hold luggage, handbags… and even ourselves! We warm up the propellers, while we get to know our neighbors and the pilot (16 passengers and no closed cockpit… inevitably, we bond more quickly!) We take off: very quickly, the city of Medellin disappears to make way for this immense virgin forest whose only landmarks are these powerful rivers and a few villages of indigenous Emberas scattered here and there.
After a 30-minute flight, we catch sight of the Pacific Ocean and the town – or rather village – of Ñuqui. The adventure can begin! As soon as we arrive, we’re in the mood: we change into our appropriate clothes (hiking boots, K-way, etc.), then walk to the port for the next leg of our journey, this time by boat…! The landscapes of the Pacific Coast are breathtaking… We feel like we’re in a Spielberg film: immense immaculate beaches, the jungle flowing into the ocean with that persistent mist that gives a magical and mysterious aspect to this universe..
A modern-day Robinson Crusoe We arrive at the lodge, surrounded by jungle and ocean: we feel like Robinson Crusoe! We’re « alone in the world » in this corner of paradise… Here, time seems to have stood still: there’s no network, but we disconnect very quickly… The atmosphere of the place transports us to another world! However, I’m here to discover the region, and Pozo, our host, has warned me: the Pacific Coast is all about whales, but not just that! And he’s right: he explains to me the many different hikes and activities on offer… I’ll never have time to see and do everything in just 4 days…! So I set off immediately for my first walk in the heart of the jungle..
Jungle, rivers, waterfalls, hot springs and pristine beaches This first hike puts me right in the mood: my guide is blazing a trail with his machete, and the vegetation is so dense that he fades into the background… But « Flaco’s » assurance gives me confidence: he knows this place like the back of his hand. He also takes the opportunity to show me the local vegetation and the various treatments and natural by-products that the locals use in their daily lives: tree sap, leaves, insects, etc. As this is a very remote and difficult-to-access region, you’ll be surprised by the ingenuity of the « chocoanos », which is still passed on to new generations!
But Chocó isn’t just about jungle and beaches as far as the eye can see, it’s also about magnificent waterfalls that often punctuate the walks and offer a moment of relaxation and refreshment… The « Cascade de l’Amour », the « Cascade têtue », all with names more evocative than the others!
There are also wonders hidden from view: thermal springs, canoe trips deep into the jungle: there’s no doubt that nature is king here!
It’s also the discovery of tiny villages, lost among the palm trees, whose inhabitants give you a warm welcome. In one of them, I’m greeted by the « Doña », 1.50 m tall, 87 years old and with almost all her teeth! She goes off to get me a « coco niño », an immature coconut, which I take the time to sip while chatting with her. The children playing soccer or surfing, the women playing cards in the shade of the palm trees, the men arranging the facades of the houses and planting all sorts of tropical flowers… The sweetness of life is very much in evidence! I now understand better the Colombians who gently mock the inhabitants of Chocó and the « chocoana hour »: here, everything moves in slow motion!
That’s it, my trip is coming to an end… Tomorrow morning I have to return to civilization, with a twinge of regret… A few more days in this corner of paradise wouldn’t have gone amiss! I could have explored the surrounding area even more, or tried my hand at surfing, as the beaches in the region are reputed to be some of the best in the country! But all good things must come to an end…. Hasta pronto Ñuqui!
And what about the whales? Although it was out of season when I went, I was lucky enough to observe a few late-maturing whales, accompanied by their newborn calves. With a baby, it’s not possible to sail along the coast so quickly, and it’s necessary to spend a lot of time on the surface to breathe… A big advantage for us humans, as we can enjoy the show! Pozo explains that 20 years ago, the inhabitants of the coast were afraid of them: these sea monsters forced fishermen to leave their boats for 3 months and go into the jungle to hunt. The water they spat out of their skulls was a warning: they were angry and wanted to protect their Ocean. Today, whales fascinate more than they frighten, but we respect them: we are « at home » with them, in their universe…. We observe them, but from a distance. This respect for « the other », for this majestic animal, makes the moment even more magical..
