Here we are: my first « reconnaissance trip » to Salamina, a small village on Colombia’s coffee route, for TERRA COLOMBIA… I’m really excited, because the reason we do this job is so that we can « get out in the field », as we say in the jargon!
Indeed, it’s thanks to this that we can then propose our best addresses: find an incredible little restaurant hidden around the corner, enjoy a wonderful cocktail on the terrace of a charming hacienda, go hiking and discover new trails, meet locals who agree to open their homes to our travellers… It’s always an exciting challenge, full of surprises!
From Pereira to Salamina
at 8 a.m., after a good cup of coffee (living in the capital of the coffee region, it would be a shame to go without!), I set off with my driver to discover the department of Caldas and, more specifically, the small village of Salamina. Quite difficult to access just a few years ago, this village is now slowly opening up to tourism. I’ve heard that the scenery is magnificent and that the village is well worth the detour: that’s what we’re going to see!
Discovering Salamina and its surroundings
The team hadn’t lied to me: the road is really beautiful, the views breathtaking… it’s just a shame the weather isn’t so good! We arrive in Salamina in the afternoon. We soak up the atmosphere of the place, its square, its colorful houses, its men with their magnificent sombreros drinking coffee. We visit the hotels: some are nice, but none really stand out. We continue our search, but to no avail, and we’re getting tired… We sit down for a coffee and, overhearing us talking, the manageress recommends a little address
Discovery of a small local hacienda
We’re a little reluctant (Colombians don’t have the same vision of quality accommodation as us Europeans), but we go there anyway… And then it’s a revelation! This is my gem! A small hacienda with just 3 rooms and a magnificent view over the valley and the village… And what’s more, the sun deigns to appear behind the clouds! We spend a good half-hour admiring the landscape and enjoying the gentle way of life that this place exudes. But now it’s time to set off again, to draw up our « plan of attack » for tomorrow: what to do, what to see, what to visit?
Advice from the locals
So we return to our « cafetera » who had given us such good advice. After a » tinto » and a few arepas, there are now seven of us around the table: the local craftsman, a guide living in Salamina, the cousin of the grocer across the street, etc… All are passionate about their village and its surroundings, and offer their advice on what we should do tomorrow!
One thing is certain for now: we won’t have time to see everything and return to Pereira right away. At 8.30pm, the decision is made: we’ll stay an extra night on Salamina to really get to know the area and make the most of tomorrow. After sorting out a few ideas for excursions, we head off to bed, tired from our first day but satisfied with what we’ve seen so far and the people we’ve met
Willys Jeep excursions around Salamina
The next morning, we met early in the village square and set off in a Willys Jeep with two friends we’d met the day before. The sun is out and it’s shaping up to be an excellent day! We stop wherever we can: a tanner opens the doors of his workshop, further on, some « caballeros » are training their horses at Paso Fino, not to mention all the inhabitants of these isolated farms who invite us to stop for a snack. Here, in addition to coffee, » Panela » (cane sugar) is also grown, and many dairy products are produced nearby. Our day soon turns into a gastronomic tour! But we mustn’t lose sight of our objective: to discover places off the beaten track and new ideas for activities and excursions.
Hacienda lost in the wilderness
We arrive at a small hacienda where the owner opens the gates of his estate: 80 hectares in the heart of the mountains, between cultivated fields and wax palms, Colombia’s national tree. A real playground for hikers and horseback riders. We return to the village at the end of the day, still amazed by the incredible day we’ve just had.
That’s it, last morning in Salamina, and it’s time to set off again. We decide to hit the road again, this time via the other side of the mountain. Perhaps we’ll discover a few more surprises!
The little village of La Merced
And indeed, at the bend in the road, we reach the small village of La Merced, where time seems to have stood still… Finally, we get back on the road and I let myself be lulled by the magnificent scenery and the Colombian music coming from the radio… To sum up, it’s been an intense three days in terms of discoveries and encounters, and I hope to have the opportunity to share these emotions with you on your next authentic trip to the coffee region!
Salamina can be visited from Pereira or Medellin.Mathilde, Terra Colombia.
